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weasle
Supporter
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Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 12:03 pm |
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| nope , just the tc,s.
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 11:55 am |
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Dave wrote: Sprayin' oil at the under-side of the pistons has been around for many years in other engines (Not HD). I didn't know that the TC did it too... I wasn't for sure if it was the Evo or the TC that did this? Maybe Evo's do to?
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 11:11 am |
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| Sprayin' oil at the under-side of the pistons has been around for many years in other engines (Not HD). I didn't know that the TC did it too...
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Vero Steve
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 06:24 pm |
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jeffy ole boy wrote: Vero Steve wrote: Absolutely.......the TC's spray oil on the bottom of the pistons for cooling...... Good! now I know.... in lite of this then-do you think the jets would have a tuffer time in colder climates handling anything thicker than 20w50? Not in the summer time..........But below 60 stick to the 20/50
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Vero Steve
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 05:44 pm |
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| Absolutely.......the TC's spray oil on the bottom of the pistons for cooling......
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marc
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 05:43 pm |
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| I'm not Steve...Jeff...They did that a few years ago...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 05:33 pm |
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Vero Steve wrote: My new EGC just had its first oil change and I put straight 50W in it.................
Hey Steve, knowing that you've been inside the TC motor- is there really any truth to the notion that the motor has jets that spray oil to the underside of the pistons ?
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 02:34 pm |
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empty wrote: Ya see, ole JOB knew he was gonna get people talkin' on here when he opened up this subject. Thing is, it's never really been a debate, more like people all stepping up defending what they use when nobody actually attacked it. Yeah.. its just a matter of preference. I think with alot of us its just whatever oil we start using we usually stick with.... Makes for good conversation. Cliff my boss almost had me talked into trying' some airo Shell 15w50 semi-synth he uses in his airplane at $6.50 a qt.
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:28 pm |
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Vero Steve wrote:
Dave I've seen EVO's with so much blow by that the dip stick won't stay seated in the tank and after a long run oil is dripping out of the air cleaner..............
I'm convinced that oil is oil as long as its good oil.
I agree with ya for the most part Steve. I'm not even sure its gotta be "Good" oil. Hell, most of what I used in mine over the year before I had the engine rebuilt, was the no-name crap you can buy at the supermarket...
weasle wrote:
probably more like people tellin ya what works for them , rather than a debate.
Exactly...
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weasle
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:18 pm |
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| probably more like people tellin ya what works for them , rather than a debate.
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empty
Supporter
| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1331 |
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:01 pm |
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| Ya see, ole JOB knew he was gonna get people talkin' on here when he opened up this subject. Thing is, it's never really been a debate, more like people all stepping up defending what they use when nobody actually attacked it.
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Vero Steve
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 11:48 am |
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Dave I've seen EVO's with so much blow by that the dip stick won't stay seated in the tank and after a long run oil is dripping out of the air cleaner..............
I'm convinced that oil is oil as long as its good oil.
I've run Mobil 1 in my Dyna for years because it runs cooler with it..........
My Shovel I run straight 60 weight HD in summer straight 70W..............
Dad's old RK I've run the HD straight 50W from day one and its clean as a clean can be for a almost 100K motor................
(PS I bought a trans off guy who upgraded to the six speed and the old girls is back on the road )
Dads new RK runs SYN 3.............Jurys still out on it...............
My new EGC just had its first oil change and I put straight 50W in it.................
Last edited on Tue Mar 4th, 2008 11:49 am by Vero Steve |
Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 10:58 am |
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BTW - One thing that I did notice when it was sitting, idling in my backyard, on dirt. The crankcase vent would blow all the "dusty" dirt away from the harder soil.
That told me that I had a lot of blow-by and not a lot burning up in the cylinders and out the pipe...
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 10:56 am |
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empty wrote:
That sounds like a pretty straight up non-debatable experience. Was all the blow by coming through the bad valve or cylinders? It's anyone's guess, I figured it was through the bad valve. Considering the way it broke, it had to have been a problem for awhile. Valves shouldn't break like that. I'm guessing it was a flaw in the manufacturing. But, it did hold up for a lot of miles. So, can't really complain about it.
Don't get me wrong, this thing wasn't blowin' a cloud of smoke all over the place. But, when I was sittin' at a light, it would see a bit of blue smoke in the air once in awhile.
I would've known more if I had done a compression check early on. But, like I said before I was scared to and by the time it went, it was too late...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 10:49 am |
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Not a dumb ass opinion at all Dave... a very good one especially since your bike was using alot of oil at that time. It would of made no sense to me putting in expensive oil when it was just going to get burned.... I think its all good anymore really.
In my car and SUV I mostly run just conv. oil have run semi syn a few times. As far as V-twins go they do run hot- but if I were going to change my oil every 3,000. miles I would for sure just run 20w50wt conv oil. For extended intervals I like 20/50 synthetic that's just me.... Most important thing is it all needs changed when it gets dirty. JMO
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empty
Supporter
| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1331 |
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 10:40 am |
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| That sounds like a pretty straight up non-debatable experience. Was all the blow by coming through the bad valve or cylinders?
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 10:23 am |
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Just my dumb-assed opinion here. This is what I learned with my Evo at rebuild time...
It was using a lot of oil before that valve busted. A LOT. I'm talking a quart to a tank of gas. About like a 2-stroke. (Even had a few guys that I rode with kid me about my 2-stroke FXR, LOL) Anyway, I wasn't picky about what went in the oil tank. As long as it was at least 10-w40, if I could get my hands on 20-w50, great! If not...
Brand? I didn't care. I was goin' through it too fast to care. As long as I kept the tank topped off with oil, I'd use Castrol, Valvoline and I even used generic brands. Didn't matter to me.
Like I said, keep that oil tank full and the idiot light off. Went that way for a long time.
Fast forward to after the rebuild for a second. Because I had this conversation with the engine builder...
And lets think about it. Dino Vs. Synthetic?
Dino - You can get it in any auto parts store.
Synth - Purple stuff? Amsoil? With the exception of Moble1, it ain't on the shelf in every store.
Dino - You can mix brands in a pinch.
Synth - You can probably get away with mixin' brands. But, you're warned not to mix in Dino.
Dino - About $3.00 a quart.
Synth - About $6.00 (or more) a Quart.
I don't have the storage on my bike to carry an extra quart with me either. No bags, you're limited on space.
One more thing I learned when I had the engine gone through...
All my bearings were in decent shape. They were ready to be replaced. But, nothing unusual with wear, no knocking, etc. Bore was cleaned up at .005"oversized. 3 of the 4 valves were in great shape too. Sorta proves (to me) that my theory about keepin' the oil tank full is more important than what specific brand or type goes in it. As long as its at least 10-w40, yer good to go...
Agian, this is just my dumb-assed opinion...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 11:30 pm |
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empty wrote: jeffy ole boy wrote: empty wrote: Don't mix oil types, the chemicals in the viscosity enhancers are not all compatible. If you are paying over $9 a quart, I understand why you are looking for a change, I would too. You run Royal Purple right? How much is it a qt? I pick it up at NAPA for about $6.50 or so, you get a discount if you buy 6 quarts or more. Hmm.. I'll ask our NAPA store about that tomorrow....... I remember as I'm sure you all can to back 20 yrs ago or longer having to pay like $2.00 a quart for Harley oil and thinking man this stuff is high! Now look at it! Outrageous like everything.
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empty
Supporter
| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1331 |
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Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 10:41 pm |
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jeffy ole boy wrote: empty wrote: Don't mix oil types, the chemicals in the viscosity enhancers are not all compatible. If you are paying over $9 a quart, I understand why you are looking for a change, I would too. You run Royal Purple right? How much is it a qt? I pick it up at NAPA for about $6.50 or so, you get a discount if you buy 6 quarts or more.
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 08:33 pm |
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empty wrote: Don't mix oil types, the chemicals in the viscosity enhancers are not all compatible. If you are paying over $9 a quart, I understand why you are looking for a change, I would too. You run Royal Purple right? How much is it a qt?
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