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Dave Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 04:34 pm |
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I may have asked wrong. But, what I mean is where does it fall in the system.
The oil pressure sending unit on the Cone-Style Shovel and Evo is on the oil pump. I believe (and I very well could be wrong) it "measures" the pressure coming out of the pump, before it goes to the rest of engine.
Does the Twinkie measure it in the same place in the flow of the oil?
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marc Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 03:59 pm |
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Dave wrote: Both of you are runnin' twinkies right? (Marc & Jeff)
Is the oil pressure sending unit in a different spot in the overall oil flow on one of them than it is on an Evo or cone-style Shovel?
Just curious. Yup...Not sure about the sending unit...
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 02:53 pm |
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Dave wrote: Both of you are runnin' twinkies right? (Marc & Jeff)
Is the oil pressure sending unit in a different spot in the overall oil flow on one of them than it is on an Evo or cone-style Shovel?
Just curious. I'm not sure where its located on the Evo's Dave... On the twinkies it screws into the front of the engine block down low just behind the front header pipe. About 3" long w/ plug in from the electric oil guage on the end of it.
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Dave Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 01:37 pm |
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Both of you are runnin' twinkies right? (Marc & Jeff)
Is the oil pressure sending unit in a different spot in the overall oil flow on one of them than it is on an Evo or cone-style Shovel?
Just curious.
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marc Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 12:33 pm |
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jeffy ole boy wrote: Dave wrote: Now ya have me wonderin' Jeff.
How much oil pressure did you really have before you swapped that spring? With a bad sending unit, you may have had plenty and didn't know it.
But, if it quieted things down, cool... Good point Dave, my sending unit was weak so it turns out. In retro-spect I should of replaced it first. Before I did anything, running down the road I was carrying between 25 to 28 psi hot. Idling hot maybe 5 psi at best. With spring change boosted it to 40 hot psi 10 idle hot. WIth new oil sender now its up there 50 psi hot running at speed 20 psi at hot idle. Motor sounds very smooth and quiet. No leaks! Total cost approx $50.00 Idling I am just below 5 psi and on the road 32 psi...
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 11:52 am |
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Dave wrote: Now ya have me wonderin' Jeff.
How much oil pressure did you really have before you swapped that spring? With a bad sending unit, you may have had plenty and didn't know it.
But, if it quieted things down, cool... Good point Dave, my sending unit was weak so it turns out. In retro-spect I should of replaced it first. Before I did anything, running down the road I was carrying between 25 to 28 psi hot. Idling hot maybe 5 psi at best. With spring change boosted it to 40 hot psi 10 idle hot. WIth new oil sender now its up there 50 psi hot running at speed 20 psi at hot idle. Motor sounds very smooth and quiet. No leaks! Total cost approx $50.00
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Dave Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 10:20 am |
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Now ya have me wonderin' Jeff.
How much oil pressure did you really have before you swapped that spring? With a bad sending unit, you may have had plenty and didn't know it.
But, if it quieted things down, cool...
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 12:55 am |
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jeffy ole boy wrote: New Spring was a success, but I think I got a faulty oil sending unit or weak guage. Shows more oil pressure now, but doesn't maintain as high pressure readings as my 2 other buds that did the same spring change out.... But I must say the motor is quieter practicly no valve train noise at all now. Went ahead today and replaced the oil sending unit. Was $33. at the dealer holds a min. oil pressure of 20 psi now when the motors hot. 50 psi cold. 
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 06:10 pm |
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weasle wrote: jeff dont know if the twin cam workes like the evo oil pump,but basicaly its like a ball and spring in the pump , the stronger the spring the less oil flow and vice versa. the oil pushes against the ball and spring to get into the lines. at least thats the way the one in my 94 works. Ok yeah within the oil pump itself. This deal here is seperate from the oil pump. It works in unison with the oil pump but this particular spring is outside of the pump- is in the cam plate.
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weasle Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 05:50 pm |
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| jeff dont know if the twin cam workes like the evo oil pump,but basicaly its like a ball and spring in the pump , the stronger the spring the less oil flow and vice versa. the oil pushes against the ball and spring to get into the lines. at least thats the way the one in my 94 works. Last edited on Fri Apr 4th, 2008 05:54 pm by weasle |
jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 05:02 pm |
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empty wrote: jeffy ole boy wrote: Sure notice the 2 shafts bottom left portion of it there, ones round, the other square, you drive out the small black roll pin underneath those shafts with an 1/8 inch punch and the spring pulls out from the left side inside the housing there. Replace with new roll pin if avail. can get at NAPA... Thats all there is too it. Use a screw driver to compress the spring enough to drive the new roll pin back thru.......
Sounds pretty basic, I wonder what exactly the spring is pushing backpressure against.... The shafts you pointed out are actually, (round one) where the old chain tensioner was mounted and (square one ...really hex) is a tapered oil pump alignment tool. There is a valve in there I believe that is controlled by this Spring or vise versa....
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empty Supporter

| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1346 |
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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 03:26 pm |
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jeffy ole boy wrote: Sure notice the 2 shafts bottom left portion of it there, ones round, the other square, you drive out the small black roll pin underneath those shafts with an 1/8 inch punch and the spring pulls out from the left side inside the housing there. Replace with new roll pin if avail. can get at NAPA... Thats all there is too it. Use a screw driver to compress the spring enough to drive the new roll pin back thru....... Sounds pretty basic, I wonder what exactly the spring is pushing backpressure against.... The shafts you pointed out are actually, (round one) where the old chain tensioner was mounted and (square one ...really hex) is a tapered oil pump alignment tool.
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 03:08 pm |
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Sure notice the 2 shafts bottom left portion of it there, ones round, the other square, you drive out the small black roll pin underneath those shafts with an 1/8 inch punch and the spring pulls out from the left side inside the housing there. Replace with new roll pin if avail. can get at NAPA... Thats all there is too it. Use a screw driver to compress the spring enough to drive the new roll pin back thru.......
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empty Supporter

| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1346 |
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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 02:43 pm |
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Curious, do you remember enough about it to point out where on this cam plate the spring would go?
Attachment: camplate.jpg (Downloaded 148 times)
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 02:06 pm |
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Thanks Empty, yeah I drained the oil, yanked off the exhaust and took off the cam cover yesturday evening. Ben came over took him all of about 2 min. to take out the little roll pin and replace the stock spring with the baisley spring. He said his motor is quieter and he believes that the increased oil pressure is a good thing as opposed to sitting at a red lite when its 100 degrees with 0 oil pressure. LOL!
He's coming over here in a few min- with a torque wrench- to tighten the cam cover screws to specs.....
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empty Supporter

| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1346 |
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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 01:45 pm |
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After reading the guy's directions on 'how to' there Jeff, let me throw a small piece of advice that I can see this guy is definately not aware of.
1. Make sure you have the manual on your bike.
2. Yes there are bolts with Loctite on them, make sure you chean them and the holes well and use the correct Loctite according to your manual.
I can see you are determined to have this extra oil pressure, so make sure when you do it you don't take any hack shortcuts and keep it clean.
jeffy ole boy wrote:
Ok this is the Spring.. Got this info off another Board. Its called the Baisley Spring. Installed Baisley spring-BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!
I just installed the Baisley oil relief valve spring in my 04 Road King Classic and can't believe the difference it made in valve train noise. The on again, off again "ticking" while cruising is now gone.
Baisley Hi-Performance
5511 N. Interstate Ave.
Portland Oregon 97217
(503)289-1251
Part number is LMR-002
for 1999 and later Twin Cam A and B motors
As quoted from instruction sheet:
*Increases oil pressure-15%, typicly 5lbs
*Quiet running motor
*More progressive spring rise
*Use in any TC A or B motor, even stock
*A Must Have for cams requiring higher valve spring pressure
*Restored oil pressure throughout the oiling system when using high volume piston cooling jets and high performance and race tolerances
*Squared and ground ends for less variance in installed length and pressure
*Designed, engineered and manufactured to our (Baisely's) specs for this application-not a "hardware store" spring
A version for Evo is available too.
Last edited on Fri Apr 4th, 2008 01:45 pm by empty |
Fritz Prospect
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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 12:42 pm |
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I used to worry about pressure, then I remembered my old '53 Chevy wagon with the babbet bearing 216 ci 6cyl. That engine had an oil pump all right but it just put pressure on the valve train. The mains got only splash and the rods had little scoops that picked up oil from a trough that was filled by the pump.
Now that old car made several trips across the country, even the rockies!
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2008 01:27 am |
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Ok this is the Spring.. Got this info off another Board. Its called the Baisley Spring. Installed Baisley spring-BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!
I just installed the Baisley oil relief valve spring in my 04 Road King Classic and can't believe the difference it made in valve train noise. The on again, off again "ticking" while cruising is now gone.
Baisley Hi-Performance
5511 N. Interstate Ave.
Portland Oregon 97217
(503)289-1251
Part number is LMR-002
for 1999 and later Twin Cam A and B motors
As quoted from instruction sheet:
*Increases oil pressure-15%, typicly 5lbs
*Quiet running motor
*More progressive spring rise
*Use in any TC A or B motor, even stock
*A Must Have for cams requiring higher valve spring pressure
*Restored oil pressure throughout the oiling system when using high volume piston cooling jets and high performance and race tolerances
*Squared and ground ends for less variance in installed length and pressure
*Designed, engineered and manufactured to our (Baisely's) specs for this application-not a "hardware store" spring
A version for Evo is available too.
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jeffy ole boy Supporter

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Posted: Wed Apr 2nd, 2008 11:38 pm |
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Randy in Pensacola wrote: My 07 oil pressure idles around 20 and goes to 30-40 when I take off. I have seen it around 50+ when I ride it hard.......I asked the dealer about it and he said "dont you just love them new Twinkies".....LOL He also said, "If you dont see the light, dont worry, them gauges are a POS."
If I was you Jeff, I would wait and see how your buds bike does and if its ok after a season or so then go for it.....JMO Good advice.... Randy, I understand more about how the motor oils itself now too after MT and Dave and others enlightened me today as well... high oil pressure isn't much of a concern in a roller bearing motor I now understand. You all are great to share ideas with. well most of the time... LMAO!
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Randy in Pensacola Supporter

| Joined: | Wed Nov 3rd, 2004 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 800 |
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Posted: Wed Apr 2nd, 2008 10:42 pm |
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My 07 oil pressure idles around 20 and goes to 30-40 when I take off. I have seen it around 50+ when I ride it hard.......I asked the dealer about it and he said "dont you just love them new Twinkies".....LOL He also said, "If you dont see the light, dont worry, them gauges are a POS."
If I was you Jeff, I would wait and see how your buds bike does and if its ok after a season or so then go for it.....JMO
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